the warehouse: Birthday in Paris

I had wanted to do a solo trip to Paris for a weekend before we moved home. I didn't think it would happen, but then I discovered my birthday was going to be on a Saturday this year. So I sprung into action to make it happen. I booked a train ticket for a 3-day weekend and made a plan. A couple days before I left, I celebrated with Adam and the kids:

Then, boom, got up early on Saturday, March 3, and hopped on the train for Paris. I was nervous because I think the last time I traveled alone was when I lived in Taiwan 13 years ago. Some of my happiest memories are of riding a bus alone through that strange, mysterious country to explore some unknown area. I knew I liked solo travel then, but would I like it still this time? Only one way to find out!

When planning a trip for the whole family, I have it mapped out very clearly. I have an itinerary, I have pre-purchased tickets, I know I can rely on my phone to get us there. I basically planned it the same way this time. Alone time as a wife and mother is GOLD, so I didn't want to waste any time. I made a plan and bought tickets and left just a little wiggle room.

Here's how it all went down.

I got off the train and left my duffle bag in the train station locker room for the day. Then I headed straight to the Pompidou Centre. It's the modern art museum in Paris and I'd never been. I really liked it! I am a sucker for modern art. It's wacky, it makes no sense, it's something that looks like it could be made by any old fool. But, surprise, it actually couldn't.

After that I grabbed some lunch at a dumpling place (Cing Fois Plus) and then went to the Picasso Museum. It was pretty good. They were missing one entire floor of exhibition because it hadn't arrived yet. The permanent collection was okay. I was glad I'd gone to the one in Barcelona, because it was much better. Still, I'm glad I went.

The rest of the afternoon, I walked around Paris. Then I went to the train station, picked up my bag, and headed to my hotel near the Arc de Triomphe (Hotel Princesse Caroline). Walking and metro time around the city takes up so much time, but it's all part of the experience. I dropped off everything at the hotel, changed into more comfortable shoes, then went back out onto the Champs Elysees for dinner at ..... drum roll ... Five Guys Burgers. Blasphemous, I know, but when you live in Europe for many years, all you really want in life is a solid American burger. It. Made. My. Life. Complete. And finished perfectly the day of the 36th year of my birth.

The next morning, I made my way over to the Latin Quarter to take a croissant making class. It's really the main thing I came to Paris for, and I was over the moon excited about it. The cooking school is called Le Foodist and it's geared toward English speaking tourists.

There were three other students besides me: a mother-daughter duo from California and a woman from Bosnia. They were really fun to get to know. Then of course, Hugo, our French pastry chef. He was delightful.

We made pain au chocolat with the same dough, including those little swirly versions in the center using the extra dough strips. Nothing goes to waste.

So incredible, so delicious, and best of all, I think I could recreate them at home! We each got to take home a box of the four we made plus our two pains au chocolat. I carried that box all over Paris and they even made it home to my family. Even a few days old, these babies made everyone happy. Mostly me!!

After the cooking class, I had the rest of the afternoon to kill with no real plan. It was the first Sunday of the month and therefore it was get-in-free day at most museums. It was raining so I looked on my phone map and decided on a couple spots that were nearby. The Pantheon was first.

Over the years this building has gone back and forth between secular and religious. It was built as a church to honor St. Genevieve. Today there are huge murals celebrating her and Joan of Arc, among others. The bottom floor is a crypt where a lot of famous people are buried including Alexander Dumas, Victor Hugo, Voltaire, Marie & Pierre Curie. Very cool!

After that I went to Saint-Chappelle, a chapel built to house the Passion relics of King Louis IX and well known now mostly for its insane stained glass.

It was absolutely stunning.

I also loved the well-worn floor tiles. So, so much. Let's imagine the conversation of the designers during building, "We've got a lot going on with the ceilings and walls. Maybe we should go easy on the floors??" Long pause. A collective, "NAHHHH. GO BIG. Whatever you do, GO. BIG."

That night I followed the same routine: back to my hotel to take a rest and change into sneakers. Then! To dinner at.... drum roll .... Chipotle! Don't be mad. Don't be mad. I'm an American. I haven't had proper Mexican food in 32 months. It was a must. I needed a burrito. It was beyond worth it.

Final day of the trip: Louvre! I needed to see the decorative arts wing of the museum, and so I did. It took about an hour to get settled in there (long story, but ticket and audioguide snafus and lots more walking than I planned for...) but eventually I was on my way.

Behold Napolean III's apartments:

And other relics... sorry I didn't catch where these came from...I just liked them.

I spent a solid chunk of time looking at Dutch paintings, then ended here, the best part of the museum.

I can't remember which day it was, but I also hit up the Instagram-famous concept store, Merci. It was flooded with locals and Americans. And yes I put it on my Instagram feed. I wanted to buy something to commemorate the occasion but since greeting cards were 15€ each, I scrapped it and just came away with photos. Sorry, Merci. Thank you and desole!