Paris with Owen

I was so excited to put together this post since my brother, Owen, and I had such a blast traveling together for a few days. Then the terrorist attacks really rocked me. I've been in shock half the day since learning of them around lunch time. Our Airbnb apartment where we stayed was less than a mile north of the two cafes attacked in the 10th arrondissement. It's very close to home. Even now that I'm home, it's the neighboring country, so it's literally close to home. It's all very real. And so maddening. It is beyond comprehension. My thoughts and prayers have been with the people of Paris all day and will continue to be. And I'm thinking of all the intertwined madness in the world that doesn't get as much attention. It's all so heartbreaking.

But ... this show will go on, and even though I'm not in a very light mood, our traveling together brought so many laughs. I'm sorry in advance, but I have to relay it all. It was a perfect trip to Paris, and for that I have been reflecting with gratitude. 

Paris has come to hold a special place in my heart. I know, take a number, right? Who isn't enthralled by Paris? But my first trip to Paris in July changed me. I couldn't articulate it until about a month ago when I put it into words for Adam. It's this: Paris has given me the permission to think art and design is important. I still want to pursue a career in design after we leave Luxembourg and I've always been somewhat wishy-washy about it because it's hard for me to think of it as actually important. But Paris is pure art and design; it's everywhere you look. Not only are there dozens of museums holding world-famous art, but the art is in every detail. Every building, whether residential or commercial, is stunning. Every garden is carefully manicured and spotted with sculptures. Every bridge has something ornate and unique happening. The Seine is next to the walkway, the street is hidden. The whole design of the city was carefully planned and executed and it's been preserved like that for who knows how long? (Reading even a basic history of Paris would be helpful to this novice. Wikipedia here I come.) And why? Because someone thinks it's important to be surrounded by beauty. There's a reason people flock to Paris and romanticize it at length; being enveloped in beauty (and, oddly, beige - the whole city is beige-hued) makes us feel special. And that, my friends, is the power of good design.  

So, here's the story of my little brother and me in Paris for three days last weekend.

The minute I got back from Beynac, I unpacked and put my house back together, then I re-packed a bag. The next morning I was off again! To Paris! To meet up with Owen! I took the fast train from Luxembourg to Paris, which only took 2.5 hours (in a car it takes 4). We met up at the tourist office to pick up our Paris Passes and bought the first baguette we could get our hands on. About 10 minutes into the trip, after his long flight and tons of time on the metro, he declared, "This trip has met and exceeded my expectations!" I said, "But you've only been on the metro so far!" He didn't care. He was already in love with Paris. It just does that to you. 

We stopped at the Louvre but figured we'd save it for first thing the next morning.

Onto D'Orsay museum. I am not a great lover of museums, but when you encase them in interesting architecture, I want to go to there. The D'Orsay is in an old train station. Beautiful!

I took pictures of paintings, but only because every other tourist was doing it. Then I came to my senses and made sure to really enjoy them in real life. You know I love me some modern dance and ballet.

People watching is just as good as art watching. But then there's watching people while they are watching art.  A whole new level of intrigue.

"I heard that if you smile too much in Paris, people thing you're senile." - Owen. We definitely had to dial back our crazy a few times. It's hard to hide the glee of being in Paris, though. This is us doing our very best. And can someone cut my bangs, please? Geez.

The next morning I was the designated early forager for food. I went out at 7 am in my sweats and visited three bakeries. I came home with almond croissant, chocolate almond croissant, regular croissant, and, drum roll ...... the best baguette ever. No joke. We didn't find another one like it. And, yes, not all baguette is created equally. Our discerning palates know this for sure.

We skedaddled it as early as possible to the Louvre. We needn't have rushed; we got in right away. How cool is the glass pyramid? Whatever's happening with the orange electrical strand in the middle, I'm on board. ART. It's just so weird. And nobody has to explain it. 

Did we take a lot of staged shots of each other? Yes, yes we did. Go ahead and get used to that. When you travel with a bona fide selfie-generation-millennial, these things are par for the course. (Did you know that I'M technically a millennial? I just made the cut. Therefore it is my duty to selfie-stick the heck out of my life. Ya welcome.)

Ho hum, just a relaxing Sunday alone at the Louvre.

We had a hilarious conversation regarding this large and in charge painting of something really important. It appeared to me that Jesus was very overwhelmed and his introvert alarm was going off. "Get me to a mountain and give me peace," was what I was getting from him. #inspired #pinkpuffyvest

My sister, the ham to our Martha and Owen sandwich (she's between us in the birth order), requested to join us on our trip so we made a Flat Heather. We saw the Mona Lisa together! It. Was. Epic. (But, seriously, can someone tell me why that painting is so famous already?)

I was finally able to understand and see for myself why Van Gogh is such a great artist. He just is. You can see it. 

 It's alllll in the paint globs. #srsly

We are, like, so over the Louvre. Just kidding. I was. He wasn't. 

We had to backtrack and take Flat Heather to see Venus de Milo. #obvs

And David with his cherished Goliath head. #duh

Phew, we lasted three hours and I had to drag The Boy out. We rested in the Tuileries garden. The weather was straight heavenly all three days we were there. Applause for you, Paris in November!

Next up: L'Orangerie Museum.

 This place is truly special. Two rooms with Monet paintings spanning the walls. Heavenly!

I also liked these two portraits of women doing their work. The first one in her nightgown getting her child ready for the day. 

The second one working in a printing shop? That was my imagining. 

After that we were hungry and looking for refreshment. What to our surprise? Crepe stand! We hadn't seen any thus far and I figured they'd gone into hiding for the winter. Nope! We got three between us.

Plus roasted chestnuts. They were good! Now I can think of them every time Nat King Cole sings to me in December.

At dusk, we boarded a boat on the Seine and enjoyed an hour of relaxing and seeing the city from a different perspective.

After that we headed to Rue Montorgueil for dinner. It's a street that's well known for foodies. We didn't have a plan, just a hunger. We looked at all our options and were hoping for authentic French. We sat down in a busy, smoky, outdoor cafe and crossed our fingers.

The French onion soup was fantastic. His duck and my risotto were less stellar. The real highlight of that whole dinner was people watching and Owen's made up stories about everyone. "This lady works in a bank but she's unhappy because she's not respected. That's why she wears power pants." She was wearing wide culottes to the ankle, which were fabulous, but definitely not power pants. But when he spouted off that sentence from the top of his head, I stopped breathing I was laughing so hard. Another one, "Keiko here married a Russian...." and so it went. Owen was, as usual, my very entertaining travel companion. #paristhinkswearesenile

Down the street for gelato! We both ate so much, walking home was rough.

Undeterred, we awoke the next morning ready for our daily baguette. Owen carried one around in his backpack side pocket each day. It saved me a few times during long museum strolls. (Did you know you can eat in the Louvre? I mean, you're probably not supposed to, but I did. And it gave me the fuel to carry on. #thanksbetothebaguette)

But the baguette was about to take second fiddle as we were headed to a Parisian institution: Angelina.

Ain't nobody coming between me and my jam jars, is what I'm thinking here. 

They are famous for their drinkable chocolate. #4000caloriesoffun

 The whole meal was one of our favorite events of the whole trip. I always worry a place like that will be overrated but it wasn't. It was classy and the food was delicious. You've done it again, Paris. You made me feel special.

Then I bought a hat and Owen made fun of me.

Does it look like I care? I do not. I've been searching for this hat my whole life. And of course Paris would have it! #parisgetsme

This is us on the Big Bus. I hope you ride it when you come. It offers an even better perspective than the boat! Because it's high! And that's where all the architectural magic comes together. These are the views above the shops where you gaze at apartment balconies with fresh flowers at eye level and plan your strategic move to the city once and for all.

We hopped off in the Montmartre neighborhood. I have decided to live on this street, at the base of the Sacre Coeur cathedral.

 Or this one will do, I suppose.

 What a gorgeous backdrop for that white cathedral!

 The view of the city was really cool.

 The metro! We were so good at it. Especially Owen. Let's be honest. I have zero sense of direction and apparently, according to Owen, I run into everybody. I'm sorry, but I get lost in my wonderment. Actually: #sorrynotsorry. So there.

 Last stop: Arc d'Triomphe.

 Flat Heather was like, "Weeeeee."

Pro tourist tip: Go UNDER the street to get UNDER the arc. Yeah, it took us awhile to figure it out.

 
Paris done and done. Off to the train station for the Luxembourg leg of the trip! Owen entertained us on the communal piano while we waited ...